Turned around below the north couloir

Alpine start at 3:45am to beat the afternoon storms that have been rolling in all week. Approach went smoothly and we were racking up at the base of the couloir right on schedule.

First four pitches were straightforward — good rock, moderate 5.8 climbing, nothing surprising. Clouds started building over the ridge earlier than the forecast called for, and by pitch four we could hear thunder to the west.

Two pitches from the top, but exposed the whole way with no good bail option above us. Called it, built an anchor, and did two double-rope rappels back to the base. Rain caught us on the descent but nothing worse than that.

Route's in good condition and worth going back for — just need a cleaner weather window and probably an earlier start to buy more margin.

Beta notes

• Approach trail forks at the boulder field; stay climber's left.
• Rap anchors from pitch 4 and pitch 2 are solid, two-bolt stations.